When it comes to jewelry repair, you want to make sure that you are entrusting your valuable pieces to a qualified and reputable professional.
Unfortunately, not all jewelers are created equal and some have been known to switch out stones, hide damage, or overcharge unsuspecting customers.
Gah!!
So, how do you know if a jewelry repair is going to be professionally done?
For starters, the proof is in the pudding.
But we don’t want to have to wait until we get our items back to find that out in hindsight do we? We want that assurance before we leave our jewelry in someone’s care.
In this article, we will share some tips from the pros on how to tell if a jeweler is reputable and trustworthy.
Table of Contents
Finding A Reputable Jeweler
There is a misconception that needs to be cleared up before we start this discussion.
Many people believe that the person who owns the jewelry store is also the one doing all of the repair work.
This is not always the case. In fact, most of the time it is not.
A desk jewelers job is to know everything about diamonds, precious metals, gemstones and the industry at large. They use this knowledge to help their customers make informed decisions about purchases, repairs, and appraisals.
We call the person who does the actual work a “bench jeweler”, aka goldsmith, and they are the ones that you will be entrusting your jewelry to.
They are the ones that will be doing the repairs, so it is important to find a reputable one.
How Do You Know If A Jeweler Is Reputable?
A “jeweler” has a reputation that gets around in the community. If they are online, they will build a reputation there too.
If the store itself has a bad reputation due to mismanagement by a desk jeweler, chances are that the “bench jeweler”, that is, the competent person who handles and performs the work on the jewelry, will eventually flee and find work elsewhere in order to protect his or her reputation.
In many cases, the bench jeweler has no say as to how the store owner runs their business or treats the customers, whether good or bad.
The best way to know if a jeweler is reputable is by word of mouth.
Talk to your friends, family, and co-workers and see if they have any recommendations for you. You can also check online review sites like Yelp or Google to see what others are saying about the jeweler.
What Is A Certified Bench Jeweler?
A certified bench jeweler is a person who has successfully completed a series of tests administered by an independent organization, such as the Jewelers of America or the Gemological Institute of America.
In order to become certified, they must be able to perform repairs, set stones, and finish pieces cast in a mold.
However, this is the lowest ranking of bench jeweler, and is much too basic.
That level would be just starting at in their skill, someone who would barely be comfortable doing the simplest kind of work on a customer’s jewelry.
There are several other grades of bench jewelers, the uppermost is called a “Master Jeweler”.
A master jeweler is someone who has been in the business for many years and has performed every type of repair and service imaginable on jewelry.
They are true artists in their field.
Signs Of An Untrustworthy Jeweler
We often say that reputation follows us around like a groundhog. Sooner or later, we will end up seeing our own shadow, and so will everyone else.
Just remember that a Jewelry store that keeps such a person on the payroll is certainly not anymore trustworthy either. Run the other way if you get a sinking feeling when dropping off your item and leaving the store.
Here are some shadows of an unskilled and untrustworthy bench jewelers…the one who does your work.
Repeatedly Making Mistakes
You were specific about the repair that you wanted but got something else. For example:
- You asked for your ring to be sized to 6 and you got a size 5.
- You ask for prongs to be tipped and the prongs are now yellow gold instead of the original white gold because the jeweler did not pay attention.
- You paid for a new larger clasp for your bracelet but you got a used one of the same size.
- Your diamond looks so much different than it used to be when you got it back after your shank was replaced…kinda cloudy and a tad bit smaller.
- You lost a stone a week after they put it in.
A jeweler that is reputable will fix their mistakes without hesitation and will not charge you for the fixes.
You Cannot Speak To The Bench Jeweler
You ask the salesperson at the counter if you can speak about your repair to the bench jeweler before leaving it with them and they absolutely refuse.
Ever wonder why?
Not allowing you to speak to the person who could end up butchering your ring is a huge red flag!
This should immediately tell you that they are not confident in their abilities to do the work and they are trying to hide it from you.
A reputable jeweler will have no problem putting you in touch with the bench jeweler or even bringing them out so you can speak with them directly.
They Refuse To Take Responsibility For Mistakes
The bench jeweler screws up your jewelry and neither the store nor the jeweler will take responsibility.
You notice a tiny chip on the edge of your ruby when you inspect it after picking it up and you know for a fact that it was not there when you brought it in to tighten the prongs. Somehow it is your fault, someone else’s fault, or was like that when you brought it in.
They Omit Information
They lie.
You know they lied.
You pay close attention and you catch them in lies or half truths.
Often.
If you notice that the jeweler is constantly omitting information or not being forthcoming with details, this is a sign that they are not to be trusted. A reputable jeweler will always keep you in the loop and never withhold information from you.
Their Clientele
You notice bad reviews on Yelp.
You hear of bad experiences from others from time to time.
The store has more tweakers in a day than a pawn shop gets in a month.
You can learn a lot about a business by the type of customers they have. If the store has nothing but shady characters hanging around, that is a huge sign that they are not to be trusted.
A reputable jeweler will have a wide variety of clientele from all walks of life.
No Credentials
Ask to see the bench jewelers credentials and certifications. Pay attention to the dates on them and if they were certified from Jewelers of America or not.
If they refuse, or say that they don’t have access to that information, you are likely taking a big risk. They should be proud of their bench jeweler’s work and will happily hang certifications on the wall in plain sight.
Repairs Are Often Late
They are always late with getting their repairs done.
By weeks.
Either the jeweler is lazy or they are overworked. Neither is a good sign and is a sign that you should take your business elsewhere.
A reputable jeweler will always give you an estimated time frame for repairs and they will stick to it. If they cannot, they will let you know as soon as possible and keep you updated on the status of your repair.
Questions To Ask Before Sending Your Jewelry In For Repair
A skilled bench jeweler should confident in the work they do and not have anything to hide from their customers.
If you are questioning whether or not your jeweler is reputable, keep an eye out for these red flags and be sure to ask the following questions before entrusting them with your jewelry:
How many custom rings have you made from design to finish in the last year?
A competent bench jeweler is usually in high demand and will likely have been sought out for custom work throughout the year.
How many antique filigree pieces of jewelry have you worked on or repaired in the last year?
Antique filigree jewelry is delicate and intricate, so a jeweler that frequently works on these types of pieces is likely to be experienced and skilled.
Do you have any GIA certifications?
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the world’s leading authority on diamonds and gemstones, so a jeweler with certifications from them is likely to be knowledgeable and reputable.
How can you tell if a diamond or colored stone is heated,fracture filled, or enhanced before working on a piece of jewelry?
Gemstones that are fracture filled, heated, or enhanced are more difficult to work with and require a skilled jeweler because they are likely to explode or crack when heated.
If they are unable to answer this question, they may not be experienced enough to work on your jewelry.
Do you stretch shanks to enlarge a ring?
Stretching a ring shank is a common repair, but it should only be done by a skilled jeweler. If your jeweler is stretching the shank, it can damage the ring.
A reputable jeweler will be honest with you about your options and will never try to upsell you on services that you do not need.
Do you have a laser welder or do you use a torch to do your work?
While a bench jeweler will have their preferences in the types of tools they use, a reputable jeweler will usually have both a laser welder and a torch. This allows them to do more delicate work with the laser welder and more heavy-duty work with the torch.
Approximately how many diamonds or colored stones have you broken or chipped in the last three years?
No jeweler is perfect and mistakes happen, but a reputable jeweler will have a low percentage of diamonds or colored stones that they break or chip.
A good benchmark to use is less than five percent. If your jeweler has a higher percentage, they may not be as careful with your jewelry as you would like them to be.
However, this all assumes that the jeweler you are speaking with will answer this question honestly.
How To Tell If The Repair Was Done Correctly
Get out your loupe or ask the jeweler to loan you theirs so you can have a close look at where the work was done.
If a stone was set, make sure that there is not a chip or crack on the edges where the prongs are pressed down onto the top of the stone.
This is where they like to hide damage.
You will also want to inspect the following:
- Make sure there are no stones that wiggle or turn either.
- If your ring was sized, try it on before you walk out of the store to see if it fits. Examine it to see if you can discern where the sizing was done on the ring. If you can see evidence of where the work was done, or if the ring is now oblong whereas it was once round, it was not done correctly.
- Make sure that the solder material that was used to repair or work on your item is of the same color that the rest of the metal is.
- Make sure that nothing is “crooked” or offset if it should be perfectly aligned.
If you had any kind of repairs done, owning your own loupe and using it when you pick up your item will be the best $15 you have invested to insure that the work was successful with your own eyes.
Final Thoughts
You should be able to be confident when you bring your jewelry into a reputable store for repairs.
Sometimes if you are new to an area, you will have to ask around to many people before settling on a particular store.
But even after you have made the decision to use a specific store, you still need to find out exactly what qualifications that their bench jeweler has and how long they have been working at their trade.
If any store is reluctant to allow you to speak to their jeweler to give you peace of mind, they are not the right fit for you. You may be better off to ship your item back to the jeweler you already know and trust.